Our final weekend in Peru was both relaxing and educational. On Saturday, we were completely free to tour the city and its outskirts as we pleased. Some of us went hiking outside the city, including to Incan sites that we had not toured. Others went around the city to local sites; I was one of the latter. I began my tour of the city in the morning after breakfast; I waled through the nearby San Pedro market, partly to find a souvenir, partly to scout out places for lunch. Although I did not find the former, I was able to find the latter, a small stall selling ceviche dishes. It was delicious, and dirt cheap - the entire plate of fish, rice, and onions only cost me the equivalent of about $2.00. Next, I prepared for our departure tomorrow by packing my things and making sure I finished up the homework at the time.
For our final night, we had dinner at the Hotel Monasterio; as the name implies, the hotel was once a Catholic monastery. Like many other Catholic Church buildings in the country, it was built on top of an ancient Incan temple, the remains of which could be viewed on the lower floor. The two courtyards were both of Moorish design and lavishly decorated with plants; the front courtyard even boasted a tree that was 330 years old, making it older than Peru's current sovereign state. Our dinner itself was delicious; it had an appetizer (mine was asparagus and mushrooms), a main course (mine was a shrimp and fish chowder), and a desert. All the while, the hotel had local singers and performers playing classical music in the background. It was a lovely night.
The next two days were far more exhausting, but ultimately just as memorable. On Sunday we began heading to Lima's airport; some of us left in the morning, and some of us left in the afternoon. I was in the latter group, and used the extra time in Cusco to have my final lunch at my favorite local place; it was a pepper-alpaca-steak dish with rice and fries. Next, I watched a parade celebrating the winter solstice in La Plaza de Armas, with elaborately dressed Cuscoans performing Incan dances that no number of priests and conquistadors could snuff out. At 4:30, my group flew to Lima, where we picked up our bags we left behind; after some hours of waiting, our flight left at 1:35am for Atlanta. After some sleep, I arrived there, and then took our flight to Boston.
Today, I am at home writing my final post. As I look back on this trip, I feel overwhelmingly that I came out better for it. By learning Spanish and accommodating to the norms and rules of an entirely different culture, I learned entirely new ways of thinking. Peruvian culture is more intimate and personal than much of American culture, for better and worse; sometimes it feels welcoming, other times overbearing. The history and current events of Peru have proven educational about the course of development for states after colonialism, and how they can solve their problems. Peru's use of trade to increase prosperity after its long bouts of isolation demonstrate the opportunistic nature of Peru's people and the hard work they put into improving their lives. Finally, the length of time away from my home in such a different location made me reexamine my life. On the one hand, it showed me just how much I should treasure everything from warm showers to air conditioning. On the other hand, it reveals how much more complicated my life here can be. I am sure I will soon wish that I could disconnect from the rest of the world the way you can in a cell-service free Incan ruin, or along a wide green river-valley, or in a nearly roadless stretch of desert.
martes, 23 de junio de 2015
domingo, 21 de junio de 2015
Walking Distance from a Cloud - Our Visit to Mach Picchu
On Friday the 19th, we visited what the best known archaeological site in Peru, and arguably South America - the remains of the Machu Picchu temple. Built during the early and mid 15th century by the Incans, it was originally meant to be a temple for monitoring astronomical events such as solstices and the movement of stars. The temple was meant to be very specialized for this purpose - there are no remains of farming equipment or manufacturing areas that accompany the sites of Incan settlements, and would have had to collect food and other supplies from the surrounding area. Its remote location made it much harder to grow food; the complex sits thousands of feet above sea level, and is surrounded by dense jungle. It was ultimately abandoned before completion during the 1450s, and was not known to the outside world until 1911.
We left for the site at 5:30AM, and arrived at 11:30AM; as with our other sites, we started with a personal tour. The guide started by explaining the site's purpose, and showing various stone statues that looked innocuous, but were used as sundials and reference points for the position of the sun in the sky. He also explained how the Incans brought water to the temple through gravity powered aqueducts; the Incans opened up springs in the mountainside and used sloped channels to make it flow throughout the complex. He also spoke of the artifacts found at the site, and how they revealed its religious purpose; many religious implements, ceramics, and even the mummified bodies of humans and llamas were found by the initial archaeological teams.
At 1:00, we finished our tour, and were free to walk about the site until 4pm or go back into town. I opted to stay at the site; I walked with Eliza to help her with her broken toe, and to have some company. We revisited points from the tour since there were fewer people, and went up to the Incan bridge, a site currently under restoration. At four, we headed to town, and our group split to different restaurants for dinner; Sara, Harrison, Shelly, and I were able to split a pizza four ways. Our train ride back was delightful; the attendants treated us to an alpaca clothing fashion show led along by a man dressed in an Andean festival costume.
We left for the site at 5:30AM, and arrived at 11:30AM; as with our other sites, we started with a personal tour. The guide started by explaining the site's purpose, and showing various stone statues that looked innocuous, but were used as sundials and reference points for the position of the sun in the sky. He also explained how the Incans brought water to the temple through gravity powered aqueducts; the Incans opened up springs in the mountainside and used sloped channels to make it flow throughout the complex. He also spoke of the artifacts found at the site, and how they revealed its religious purpose; many religious implements, ceramics, and even the mummified bodies of humans and llamas were found by the initial archaeological teams.
At 1:00, we finished our tour, and were free to walk about the site until 4pm or go back into town. I opted to stay at the site; I walked with Eliza to help her with her broken toe, and to have some company. We revisited points from the tour since there were fewer people, and went up to the Incan bridge, a site currently under restoration. At four, we headed to town, and our group split to different restaurants for dinner; Sara, Harrison, Shelly, and I were able to split a pizza four ways. Our train ride back was delightful; the attendants treated us to an alpaca clothing fashion show led along by a man dressed in an Andean festival costume.
jueves, 18 de junio de 2015
Evaluating My First Two Days
My first week in Peru, from the 18th to the , in retrospect, offered several valuable learning experiences. After a weekend of adjusting to my new environment, I came to school; however, I became very sick and was unable to complete the rest of the day's activities. Tuesday was much better, however; after school, our group toured Peru's National Museum of History, which ranged in scope from the Ice Age to the present. It was located in Simon Bolivar's former home in Peru during the war of independence, making it all the more important symbolically. We also toured central Lima's famous magic water fountains, which are famous for their elaborate displays shows.
On Wednesday, we toured the Inquisition Museum; like Spain, Peru's Catholic authorities initiated a wide ranging crackdown on dissent from the 1600s until the Inquisition's end in 1812. Although it was smaller in scale than Spain's Inquisition and killed far fewer people, it remains a dark period in the country's history. Next, we toured Peru's national Congress; it was established after independence, although for much of its history it was unwilling or unable to competently govern, and was frequently overthrown by the military. Today's Congress is much more stable since the establishment of a new constitution in 1994. Finally, we toured Peru's Gastronomical Museum, which detailed the development of food in Peru from the domestication of quinua and the potato to modern cooking and agriculture techniques.
During these days, I learned several useful things; first, have backups for problems you will encounter. I had packed some medicines for common illnesses from the US, but these were ineffective for the first day of my sickness. I quickly found that electrolyte solutions were much better for me, as my roommate advised, and only wish I had resorted to them sooner. Second, I learned more about how to effectively work despite adversity. Despite being ill, I was able to carry out many group activities and go to class by better observing my own needs. Finally, I learned the importance of good communication when you need help; since I had a hard time explaining my symptoms to my host family, I utilized my Spanish speaking roommate Amelio as a translator. After this, I accomplished much more than when I was trying to solve all of my problems on my own.
On Wednesday, we toured the Inquisition Museum; like Spain, Peru's Catholic authorities initiated a wide ranging crackdown on dissent from the 1600s until the Inquisition's end in 1812. Although it was smaller in scale than Spain's Inquisition and killed far fewer people, it remains a dark period in the country's history. Next, we toured Peru's national Congress; it was established after independence, although for much of its history it was unwilling or unable to competently govern, and was frequently overthrown by the military. Today's Congress is much more stable since the establishment of a new constitution in 1994. Finally, we toured Peru's Gastronomical Museum, which detailed the development of food in Peru from the domestication of quinua and the potato to modern cooking and agriculture techniques.
During these days, I learned several useful things; first, have backups for problems you will encounter. I had packed some medicines for common illnesses from the US, but these were ineffective for the first day of my sickness. I quickly found that electrolyte solutions were much better for me, as my roommate advised, and only wish I had resorted to them sooner. Second, I learned more about how to effectively work despite adversity. Despite being ill, I was able to carry out many group activities and go to class by better observing my own needs. Finally, I learned the importance of good communication when you need help; since I had a hard time explaining my symptoms to my host family, I utilized my Spanish speaking roommate Amelio as a translator. After this, I accomplished much more than when I was trying to solve all of my problems on my own.
Give Me That Old Time (Incan) Religion
Today we visited numerous ruins of the Incas, with a special emphasis on ones with a religious purpose. Our first major stop was at the archaeological site of Ollantaytambo. Its primary function was as an observation post for the Incas of the position of the sun. Important This is far more modern than many people would believe. Without access to weather satellites and other modern technologies, the height of the sun in the sky is key in predicting upcoming weather, marking the beginning and ending of seasons, and determining the best time for harvests. The position of the sun was charted alongside mountains next to the temple; since their position and size did not change radically over the generations, mountains made an excellent reference point for the astronomers and priests of the temple. The temples also catered to pilgrims and worshippers from throughout the empire; for example, small holes in the wall were prayed into, and amplified the voice of the worshippers in a dramatic fashion.
After lunch, we headed to the Church of Chinchero, one of the oldest Catholic churches in Peru. Founded During the 1650s, it was used by the Spanish to the Incas convert to Christianity and to spread the notion of European dominance across the land. However, They failed to accomplish Both of These tasks in several ways. For one thing, Incan religious beliefs made their way into the church - the building itself is on top of an ancient Incan temple, while the art of the building Incorporates symbols of the Inca with symbols of Christianity. Additionally, several Important figures from the New Testament (including Jesus, Mary, and Joseph) are Portrayed With Indian physical traits and carrying out Andean traditions.
The functionality of the old Incan temples highlights why the Incan empire spread as far as it did. Its institutions in government and society provided an amazing array of services for the empire's subjects, and allowed the Incas to maximize their economic productivity and prosperity. Chinchero's church highlighted the attempts of the Spanish to impose their culture on Peru, and the ways that the Peruvians resisted. However, the rebellions of the Indians simultaneously preserved Incan traditions and made the church more attractive to the Indians due to its familiarity. I suspect that tomorrow's tour in Machu Pichu will reflect more themes of the former rather than the latter, since it was never occupied by the Spanish. However, I suspect that some Catholic themes have made their way to the site given how thoroughly connected it is with Peru currently.
After lunch, we headed to the Church of Chinchero, one of the oldest Catholic churches in Peru. Founded During the 1650s, it was used by the Spanish to the Incas convert to Christianity and to spread the notion of European dominance across the land. However, They failed to accomplish Both of These tasks in several ways. For one thing, Incan religious beliefs made their way into the church - the building itself is on top of an ancient Incan temple, while the art of the building Incorporates symbols of the Inca with symbols of Christianity. Additionally, several Important figures from the New Testament (including Jesus, Mary, and Joseph) are Portrayed With Indian physical traits and carrying out Andean traditions.
The functionality of the old Incan temples highlights why the Incan empire spread as far as it did. Its institutions in government and society provided an amazing array of services for the empire's subjects, and allowed the Incas to maximize their economic productivity and prosperity. Chinchero's church highlighted the attempts of the Spanish to impose their culture on Peru, and the ways that the Peruvians resisted. However, the rebellions of the Indians simultaneously preserved Incan traditions and made the church more attractive to the Indians due to its familiarity. I suspect that tomorrow's tour in Machu Pichu will reflect more themes of the former rather than the latter, since it was never occupied by the Spanish. However, I suspect that some Catholic themes have made their way to the site given how thoroughly connected it is with Peru currently.
miércoles, 17 de junio de 2015
Incan Laboratories and Salt Pans
Today was truly incredible because of the variety of sites visited by our groups, and the diversity of their purposes. Our first stop was at a shop of artisanal wool weavers. The weavers showed us how they created colors for Alpaca and Llama wool from different herbs and minerals. Afterwards, they showed us how the wool is shaped into cloth, and the variety of patterns that can be made from them. It was interesting to see how the people of the Peruvian Andes are keeping their traditions alive by turning them into a business.
Next, we visited Las Salineras de Maras, Peru's highest rated salt pans. They were first developed by Pre-Incan Indians, and were then used by the Incans to supply Cuzco with salt. Afterwards, the Spanish increased the scale of the pans to trade the salt throughout Peru. The pans drain a spring of salt water from the surrounding hills into terraces via gravity; then the pans are sealed off from the drain and allowed to dry. Rather than being managed by one large business, several families from the local manage it, with each family owning and harvesting from about five pans. The top layer of salt is used for cooking, the second for medicine purposes due to its mixture with clay, and the third for livestock salt licks due to its lower quality. I sampled a few flakes of the salt from the top of a nearly finished pan; despite the small portions I had, they were so pure that left a warmth in my stomach, and later on I was unusually thirsty.
Next, we toured the Annillos Agrícolas de Moray, an ancient Incan site dedicated solely to experimental breeding of crops. In order to improve their agricultural outputs, the Inca developed scientific selection of their crops much as modern selective breeding does However, exact comparisons are hard to make since the knowledge the Incan scientists has since been lost. The sites were open pits, the sides of which were terraced in layers approximately one meter deep. There were more than a dozen levels each in the two larger pits, and about four or five in the smaller one. Each layer had a microclimate that was slightly colder than the one above it, creating a wide range of temperatures so that different plants from throughout the Incan Empire could be grown in it for the experiments.
Next, we visited Las Salineras de Maras, Peru's highest rated salt pans. They were first developed by Pre-Incan Indians, and were then used by the Incans to supply Cuzco with salt. Afterwards, the Spanish increased the scale of the pans to trade the salt throughout Peru. The pans drain a spring of salt water from the surrounding hills into terraces via gravity; then the pans are sealed off from the drain and allowed to dry. Rather than being managed by one large business, several families from the local manage it, with each family owning and harvesting from about five pans. The top layer of salt is used for cooking, the second for medicine purposes due to its mixture with clay, and the third for livestock salt licks due to its lower quality. I sampled a few flakes of the salt from the top of a nearly finished pan; despite the small portions I had, they were so pure that left a warmth in my stomach, and later on I was unusually thirsty.
Next, we toured the Annillos Agrícolas de Moray, an ancient Incan site dedicated solely to experimental breeding of crops. In order to improve their agricultural outputs, the Inca developed scientific selection of their crops much as modern selective breeding does However, exact comparisons are hard to make since the knowledge the Incan scientists has since been lost. The sites were open pits, the sides of which were terraced in layers approximately one meter deep. There were more than a dozen levels each in the two larger pits, and about four or five in the smaller one. Each layer had a microclimate that was slightly colder than the one above it, creating a wide range of temperatures so that different plants from throughout the Incan Empire could be grown in it for the experiments.
martes, 16 de junio de 2015
Our First Two Days in Cuzco
Yesterday and today, we had our first few days in Cuzco. Our stay began on Monday; we departed early in the morning to avoid traffic, and arrived in Cuzco at 3pm Local time. Our first day was important for acclimatizing to the higher elevation of the city and its thinner atmosphere. We had to relax and eat little, lest we overstrain our body; we used the time to contact home, and finish up our homework. The local Coca tea is delicious, and was important to keeping up our energy.
Today, we began our tour of Cuzco and its landmarks. We started at the the San Ignacio Cathedral. Built on top of Cuzco's main Incan temple, it was one of the main centers for converting Incans to Catholicism during the colonial era. Although the church was heavily influenced by Spanish styles, it still had some Incan buildings left, which withstood earthquakes better than the (comparatively) younger colonial buildings. Next, we went to the remains of an old Incan temple. It was used as a ceremonial space for the city's religious festivals, and continues to be used to celebrate important holidays even today. It also has a commanding view of the city, making it an ideal place for its defense.
Next, we visited an ancient aquifer built by the Incas for both infrastructure and religious reasons. The spring supplied the city with drinking water, allowing it to be more secure. At the same time, it was believed that the water from it flowed directly from their Earth goddess, making it a sacred place that could only be visited by religious and political elites. Finally, we toured the Cathedral of Cuzco; like San Ignacio, it was built on top of a premier Incan temple in order to attract more local worship. In addition, many symbols of the old Incan religion such as colors, shrines, and emphasis of natural elements, are incorporated into its designs.
After our tour, we parted ways and had lunch. I went to a small restaurant with a focus on Andean cuisine, and had my first Alpaca steak; it was rich, tender, and delicious. Tonight, we will be concluding the day with our final presentations on our textbook in the hotel lobby. I imagine that they will be among the best yet given the time we all had to prepare.
Today, we began our tour of Cuzco and its landmarks. We started at the the San Ignacio Cathedral. Built on top of Cuzco's main Incan temple, it was one of the main centers for converting Incans to Catholicism during the colonial era. Although the church was heavily influenced by Spanish styles, it still had some Incan buildings left, which withstood earthquakes better than the (comparatively) younger colonial buildings. Next, we went to the remains of an old Incan temple. It was used as a ceremonial space for the city's religious festivals, and continues to be used to celebrate important holidays even today. It also has a commanding view of the city, making it an ideal place for its defense.
Next, we visited an ancient aquifer built by the Incas for both infrastructure and religious reasons. The spring supplied the city with drinking water, allowing it to be more secure. At the same time, it was believed that the water from it flowed directly from their Earth goddess, making it a sacred place that could only be visited by religious and political elites. Finally, we toured the Cathedral of Cuzco; like San Ignacio, it was built on top of a premier Incan temple in order to attract more local worship. In addition, many symbols of the old Incan religion such as colors, shrines, and emphasis of natural elements, are incorporated into its designs.
After our tour, we parted ways and had lunch. I went to a small restaurant with a focus on Andean cuisine, and had my first Alpaca steak; it was rich, tender, and delicious. Tonight, we will be concluding the day with our final presentations on our textbook in the hotel lobby. I imagine that they will be among the best yet given the time we all had to prepare.
The Free Weekend
This weekend was great for making my own schedule. On Saturday, I started the day by admiring the Pacific from Lima one last time. Lima's normal fog was rolling in, blurring the boundary between the sea and sky into one grey mass; it was unforgettable. I went to many different restaurants while I was still had the opportunity, and explored central Lima with an UNIFE student named Romina. She and I went to Barrio de China, and tried Salon de Capon for a late lunch. Afterwards, we went down to Miraflores and explored some of the local bars.
On Sunday, I had my final lunch with my host family. They prepared a delicious plate of chicken, chive-pastry, and potatoes. Next, my group went for our final dinner in Lima at the Rosa Nautica restaurant. We were treated to a four course meal of a pisco sour, appetizers, a main dish, and desert. We also dropped off most of our clothes things for storage during our interlude in Cuzco. We will see them again in a few days when we leave for home.
On Sunday, I had my final lunch with my host family. They prepared a delicious plate of chicken, chive-pastry, and potatoes. Next, my group went for our final dinner in Lima at the Rosa Nautica restaurant. We were treated to a four course meal of a pisco sour, appetizers, a main dish, and desert. We also dropped off most of our clothes things for storage during our interlude in Cuzco. We will see them again in a few days when we leave for home.
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